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How to test and replace transistors on a Wells Gardner 6100 moni…

How to test and replace transistors on a Wells Gardner 6100 moni...



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This is Part 1. Part 2 where we rebuild the monitor and install the LV2000 is here:

Read this as you test transistors:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmcOWtz2rI8cdEJGanM2ZmpfOEJFSjkzRlFIenc2Snc&usp=sharing#gid=0

6100 MONITOR FAQ: http://www.ionpool.net/arcade/tech/6100_faq.pdf

In this video we will follow the 6100 monitor faq to test and replace the chassis/frame bottle-cap transistors on a Wells Gardner 6100 color vector monitor from a Tempest. This monitor is also found in other Atari vector games like Space Duel, Star Wars, Gravitar, and more.

This video shows how...

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Tags: transistors

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27 Comments

  1. Date: January 20, 2014 at 11:43
    Author: Etienne

    only 360p ?  no HD this time ?
    Anyway, Thanks john 😉

  2. Date: January 20, 2014 at 13:05
    Author: commandtheline

    wah-wah… Sucks man, know the feeling. Frustrating. Hope you get it whipped, 6100s don't grow on trees. Did I hear a slow ticking or pulsing at the end where you started to smell something? Couple of my raster monitors do that when they are in HV shutdown (usually something in the Horz. circuit or the HOT it shorted

  3. Date: January 20, 2014 at 15:18
    Author: bigkev6925

    Thanks John i think you help me with my Star Wars problem.

  4. Date: January 20, 2014 at 17:30
    Author: uhfnutbar1

    Wow that sucks Eh  well you know they say 🙂 if at first you don't succeed try try again, you got open up that cage and see if the fly back arching or crack then test it GL 

  5. Date: January 20, 2014 at 20:28
    Author: sandman x

    42:52 "Just trying to suck it off"

    Someone should take that sound clip and play it on Arcade Outsiders.

  6. Date: January 20, 2014 at 21:46
    Author: Dean Froley

    Hi John, at 1 hr 8 mins 30 seconds of this video you throw away a 2" blue/white wire that was connected to the back of the last transistor you changed before you started reflowing.  It was originally looped on the back.  Just wondering is this the missing link? Just before you put the board back in.

  7. Date: January 20, 2014 at 21:49
    Author: UnwoundS3GA

    Great Video John, As Always! 🙂 At least, you fixed something. Do you think you'll do a video, on rebuilding the flyback? That would be fun to watch! 😀 

  8. Date: January 21, 2014 at 00:15
    Author: hyderyoda1

    Thanks for the FREE 2 hr class !!!!!! Wow I take a class and like it what is wrong with me !!!!! LOL  Keep up the good work ! Got my first  2 cabs in Dec 13 and looked at  few more that where way to far gone . Looking at going to my first Auction in a few weeks !!!!!!!

  9. Date: January 21, 2014 at 01:27
    Author: Themario6400

    awesome video i am going to do this on my time pilot i have a issue with my monitor it comes on and you can see neck glow and you can see the game but it is really out of focus and will not focus in i pretty sure its my fly back i watch your videos every sunday your awesome!

  10. Date: January 23, 2014 at 04:36
    Author: jabhands

    Any tips on how to replace a Nintendo monitor (100v) with a different monitor (120v)?

  11. Date: February 4, 2014 at 04:36
    Author: benmmaddog

    john shouldn't use test the legs (B & E ) to the chassis to test for a short too. i understand the colector to chassis.

  12. Date: March 16, 2014 at 19:27
    Author: Charlie V

    Hi John, Really awesome video which came in handy since I had horizontal collapse in both the top half +y and bottom half -Y. I ordered the Bob Roberts kit and watched your video. Happy to say I have a 100% working WG6100. I made a guide to help people test the transistors, wires, and connectors as they watch your video and follow the WG FAQ. 

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmcOWtz2rI8cdEJGanM2ZmpfOEJFSjkzRlFIenc2Snc&usp=sharing

  13. Date: September 25, 2014 at 03:21
    Author: Brian Henry

    Hey john have you ever worked on or had a wells gardner K8000 moinitor .   There medium res.   They are known as the oddball of wells gardner monitors before the k7500 series or the u3000 series monitors.   

  14. Date: February 4, 2015 at 03:27
    Author: Nelson Agosto

    Excellent video my friend. Quick question… I'm looking a nice multimeter for electronics work. So I was wondering if your Fluke 117 meter does the job well for you or should you recommend to get another model?

    I personally was thinking to get the Fluke 87-V but when you compare it to the Fluke 117(I was like O_O wow)in price.

    Anyway I'll wait for your response.

    Thanks in advance…

  15. Date: April 23, 2015 at 21:20
    Author: David Duresky

    I've watched a lot of your videos and not only are they of great quality, but your detailed description of what you are doing is awesome. Thank you so much for taking the time to make and post them.

  16. Date: April 26, 2015 at 02:28
    Author: Cesar Ramirez

    I have that same cabaret but for centipede. I bought it without a monitor. Do you know where I can find one

  17. Date: January 24, 2016 at 04:06
    Author: Kasey Relford

    Thank you for this coverage and referencing the XY FAQ, John. This is helping a lot in working out the monitor problems in my Tempest pickup. I owe you for this one. I Tweeted about my ever-burning resistors and low-and-behold, it looks like I just need to pick up that LV2000 upgrade/bulletproofing. Hoping I don't also have problems with my HV.

  18. Date: June 17, 2017 at 22:56

    John,
    Thanks soooo much for this video!! It totally helped me fix my recently adquired Asteroids cocktail machine.

    Your video totally gave me the confidence to try and fix the half collapsed video I was experiencing. I took the monitor out and tested the transistors and fuses with a multi-meter. I've never done this before They all tested "good". Mmmm…then I re-soldered the header connections to all four transistors on the deflection board. Now the game is fixed! It works!! I'm so excited. 🙂

    Only of couple of minor issues… the screen now appears slightly rotated as a whole. Whether in test mode (cross-hatch screen) or game mode. It looks like the whole screen is 10 degrees turned on an angle even after adjusting the X/Y pots on the PCB board. Is there any way to control for the rotation of the screen? Linearity controls on the deflection board? Also… the "fire" button doesn't work for either player. Probably a separate issue. Any thoughts or ideas at this point? Thanks in advance for your reply.

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